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Special thanks to the folks at MRC for the review sample.
1. When applying a dry transfer, use Tamiya tape to hold the transfer film firmly in place while applying it.
2. Using a pencil to rub it on is better than using a burnishing tool. The pencil marks show where you have applied pressure and where you haven't.
3. If you need to make a dry transfer conform to detail on the model, rub it on to a piece of decal paper and apply it just like a decal.
4. Old dry transfers can go bad. Sometimes they will just fall apart when application is attempted. Make sure to test an unneeded marking out on a piece of scrap.
5. Protect your transfers after application! Always spray some varnish over them before staring the weathering process.
1. Prep your surface. I like the old standby: Pledge Floor Polish. This is a no brainer. You can find this product in any supermarket, Walmart or Target. It's best to spray it over the entire model in thin, even coats. Use as many thin coats as is needed to achieve a smooth surface, especially in the areas where the markings are applied. Clean up any runs right away with a corner of a paper towel. Let it dry thoroughly before continuing. Vallejo also makes a satin varnish that seems to work well with their paints.
Lacquer varnishes like Testors Glosscote can do weird things to both acrylic and enamel paint so stay away from those.
2. Make sure your surface is smooth. Here in South Florida, the high humidity can sometimes cause flat paint to dry a bit gritty. Any paint splatters can show up later as tiny bumps in the surface of your decals. It's pretty easy to get rid of these imperfections without damaging the paint by using a super fine sanding stick or foam sanding pad. Foam sanding pads can be found at any auto parts store with body work supplies. Mine is 3000 grit. Wet sanding with very light pressure works best. Clean up residue with water only! Re-apply Pledge to get things shiny again.
3. Mr. Mark Softer is my favorite decal softener. I do not use the brush in the cap any more. It applies too much softener at one time. Micro Sol is another good one for stubborn decals. I dilute this with water before applying though as this product can sometimes make decals crinkle up permanently. Patience is the key at this point. Multiple, light applications of softener are more effective than flooding the decal with softener.
If a decal does not want to conform, do not be afraid to cut it. Make sure you use a fresh blade and the decal is totally dry before doing this!
If the decal softener starts to melt your layer of Pledge, don't panic. Let every thing dry out overnight. Sometimes the Pledge polish will dry with a little white deposit. This goes away when you apply another layer of Pledge.
4. Protect your markings with another smooth, even application of Pledge floor polish once you are satisfied.
5. Apply your washes and filters at this stage.
6. Before applying any dirt effects, apply a flat varnish. My favorite is Vallejo Matte Varnish diluted with water. The water prevents clogging in the airbrush. Apply thin coats as needed to get rid of any shine on the model.
Any questions, comments or cut downs can be sent to jeff@ampersandpubco.com
35196, WW2 French Tank Crew #1
35197, WW2 French Tank Crew #2
35198, WW2 French Tank Crew Set (2 figs)
35199, Joachim Peiper in Kharkov
35200, SS Panzer Crew Winter
35201, Joachim Peiper Kharkov Set (2 figs)
AF35279, German Kfz. 100 Bussing Nag 4500A with Bilstein 3t Crane
AF35287, US M24 Chaffe light tank T85E1 workable track links
Hobby Fan HVF-729, Wiesel-1 Tank crew (2 Resin Figures)
Track Link review here
1. When it comes to AVFs with skirts, I generally paint the lower hull, running gear and tracks after they are assembled and then mask this area off with paper and tape before moving on to the upper hull and turret.
2. Using a sandable primer such as Mr. Surfacer or Tamiya Grey helps to find minor flaws and establishes a firm foundation for coloring. Stay away from enamel-based primers. They will lift or wash away when petroleum-based thinners are used during the weathering process.
3. Adding basic color and highlights. For the T-64, I used Vallejo AFV Painting System 78.408 for this T-64 and just followed the directions on the back but the same basic principles are always in play.
Start with a shade darker than the basic color. From there, add the base color overall, still leaving some of the shadow area showing. Highlights come next using two or sometimes three shades. Last of all, protect the paint! I like to use Pledge (It used to be Future) floor polish for this. It also provides a smooth surface for decals.
4. Apply markings. Mr. Mark Softer is my favorite for this. It seems to work best on a wide variety of manufacturers. I still keep some Solvaset handy though as it comes in handy for some stubborn decals. Always apply a layer of Pledge over the decals when the application process is complete.
5. Chips and Scratches. For basic scratching, I generally apply the highest highlight shade with a foam sponge. For wear down to the bare metal, I use Vallejo SS Camouflage Black Brown just like anyone else.
6. Detail Painting. I like to use Vallejo Acrylics for this. I keep a small cup of Windex handy to fix any mistakes.
7. Dot filter and streaking. I use oil paints diluted with Turpenoid almost exclusively for filters. Turpenoid is generally easier on the paint than Mineral Spirits or White Spirits and I have less problems with paint lifting or washing away.
This is not to say that commercially available filters aren't effective but I'm an old guy and stick to waht works for me. I usually let the model dry for 24-48 hours before moving on
8. Detail Wash. Again, I like to use oil paints diluted with Turpenoid for this. My favorite colors are Raw Umber, Olive Green and Sepia.
9. Vallejo Flat. I generally apply some Vallejo Flat varnish thinned with water to get rid of any gloss and to protect the work I have already done before applying the dirt effects.
9. Add dirt. There are lots of great options out there for adding dirt effects these days but I still like to use a slurry of pigments, oil paints and Turpenoid for this. One important thing I have learned lately is that paint thinners such as Turpenoid and Mineral Spirits tend to make the pigment colors appear lighter when they dry while using pigment fixer makes them dry a little darker.
Any questions, comments or cutdowns can be addressed to jeff@ampersandpubco.com
Since we are on the subject of Vallejo today, let's talk a little bit about running latex-based paints through an airbrush. These methods apply to AK Interactive and Ammo of Mig paint as well.
1. Prime! These paints stick best to other paint. Our favorite here is good old Mr. Surfacer 1200 since it is sandable. Vallejo makes a nice latex-based primer in a variety of colors. So does AK and Ammo. The Tamiya spray primers and colors also serve as a great primer.
2. Always thin the paint. Even with model color, a few drops of airbrush thinner improve flow and prevent clogs. Vallejo 71.261 is our favorite. AK and Ammo also make a similar thinner. For Model Air, one drop or thinner to three drops of paint is a good ratio. For Model Color, around 50/50 works best.
3. Only put small amounts of paint in the cup. Latex-based acrylic dries quickly and will leave a skin of paint in the airbrush that causes clogs, so only load a few drops of paint at a time.
4. Keep your airbrush clean! Run some Airbrush Cleaner through before reloading the cup EVERY time! We like the Vallejo Airbrush Cleaner (199). AK, Ammo and Aztek all make a similar product. These cleaners work a lot better than Windex. It is best not to use alcohol based thinners for cleaning. They make the paint coagulate into a gooey, rubbery mess. Lacquer thinner can also be used, but remember that it is extremely toxic and can be absorbed through your skin as well as through your respiratory system, so take the appropriate precautions.
Any questions, comments or cutdowns can be directed to jeff@ampersandpubco.com
Water-Based Metal Color from Vallejo
19 colors made for airbrushing.
Can be applied directly to plastic.
Vallejo recommends a gloss black primer (77.660) for Aluminum finishes
Here is what they sent us to add to our modeling arsenal. A color card is located below the photos.
ZVE3601, Sd.Kfz.182 Kingtiger Henschel Turret
... and a cool new car!
The guys at Vallejo have been releasing a lot of great color sets the last few years. They recently sent us a big package of samples.
Some of these are for airplanes, a topic we don't normally cover here. However, we were impressed by the completeness of the color sets so we're going to show them off anyway! All sets include 8 bottles of paint. Some of them have a really nice foldout pamphlet that serves as a user guide.
71.187, Old & New Wood Effects. This set comes with a pamphlet.
72.865, Game Air Face Painting. This set comes with a pamphlet as well. A note to figure painters- These are Model Air colors, so they are thinner than Model Color. This may be beneficial as applying thin layers of paint is integral to the acrylic flesh painting method.
Three new Luftwaffe color sets...
Each comes with a color guide, which looks really handy for those of us without knowledge of Luftwaffe color minutiae.
71.164, Luftwaffe Maritime & Tropical Colors.
71.165, Luftwaffe Colors Pre-War to 1941
71.166 Luftwaffe Colors 1945 to End-War
Two sets of Modern U.S. Military Aircraft...
71.155 U.S. Navy & USMC Colors from 70's to Present
71.156, USAF Colors "Gray Schemes" from 70's to Present
MR-35495, Military Supplies #1 for Feldumschlaggerät (Takom)
MR-35495, Military Supplies #2 for Feldumschlaggerät (Takom)
MR-35497, Military Supplies #3 for Feldumschlaggerät (Takom)
Here is what one reader had to say:
By Pual Kopsick on June 24, 2015
Greetings, finally a photo book that actually shows operational practices of the M42A1 'Twin Forty' 40MM "Duster" in action, IN VIETNAM!
I purchased this book directly from Ampersand before it was commercially available.
If you served on this crew served weapon in Vietnam and do not have many surviving photos from Nam, this is the book you need to have. Each photo has been carefully researched and edited and annotated with specific names and locations. The first third is largely historical (Pre-Vietnam) and the last third is a detailed walk-around of the fully restored Dusters at the Tank Farm in Nokesville, VA. The middle third is chock full of actual photos shot by members of the three Duster Battalions that served in Vietnam from 1967 - 1971. You might even find a picture of your own 'track' (as we called them, it is not a tank!). Each photo was selected to show some pertinent aspect of how the weapon was used in Vietnam. Get this book! Take it to the VA and show them what you did and how it was used. There were only about 100 Dusters in Vietnam at the same time. People, historians, administrators do not know anything about these weapons or the hardship and sacrifices of the crews that served on them and the men that supported them in the field. These WERE COMBAT SOLDIERS!! Fighting alongside the Marines, the Infantry and the Artillery. They protected them on the road during the day and at the firebases at night. A truly unsung branch of the military service in Vietnam, overlooked and unheralded...UNTIL NOW!!!
