Dear All, In past year we have been receiving complains concerning the quality of some our models The problem was with raw material. Unfortunately because of certain circumstances only one type of polystyrene which made in Russia is available in Ukraine. And this kind of polystyrene is low quality with unstable indicators, what influences on final product. Moreover, the quality of the pointed polystyrene is getting worse during the year. We have tried many approaches to improve the process of manufacturing, such as special settings during injection of exact mould, special additives for polystyrene etc. But unfortunately we haven’t received needed effect. That’s why despite of increasing of net cost we made a decision to change the material. After six months of research and looking for the way of import we have purchased high quality polystyrene. The chosen material is made in Belgium. We are glad to share with you this news! And inform you that we have received the first supply of the polystyrene on August 7. We have already started injection! The new sprue’s were tested and passed quality control with excellent result! The problem of fragility is solved! If you have any questions, issues please do not hesitate to contact us by emails, FB, guestbook. We will do our best to help you and improve our quality! Sincerely yours, MINIART MODELS team
Any questions, comments or cutdowns can be directed to jeff@ampersandpubco.com
1. Removing PE from the fret.
I like to use an X-Acto with a No. 10 blade. This was shown to me by another modeler.
A small piece of glass is handy for leaning on so the PE fret is not deformed during the removal process.
The curved blade allows you to use a gentle rolling motion to cut the part and it spares the tip of your No. 11 blades, which will frequently snap off.
The blades get dull quickly, so change blades often!
2. Trimming
Most of the time, there is a small attachment point that has to be carefully removed. A Flexifile can be handy for doing this, although it will wear out quickly. Small metal jeweler files are hard to find these days, but they work best. Make sure to hold on to the part securely with tweezers or pliers so it does not deform while getting rid of the attachment point. This takes some patience and practice.
3. Manipulating Parts
Sometimes those little brass bits are difficult to pick up, even with tweezers, without deforming them. A little ball of Blu-Tac at the end of a toothpick can be helpful for this.
3. Attaching PE Parts
Super glue is the traditional method for attaching PE parts.
I use this method too, but first I like to tack them down a bit. Regular liquid cement can be used for this on styrene. Apply enough liquid cement to soften up the surface, then just push the PE part into place with light pressure. Add a little more cement afterwards to hold the part in place.
Pledge Floor Polish can be used to secure small PE parts too! Just apply a little with a small paintbrush and wait for it to dry. Any excess can be cleaned up with Windex.
I still use CA glue to make sure my parts are nice and secure after placing them using liquid cement. When attaching PE parts to resin, CA is the only real way to do it.
Here's are a few tips on CA Glue:
- I usually make a small puddle on my piece of glass and then use thin styrene (.020 or thinner) rod as an applicator. When the end becomes a round glob of congealed glue, I just cut it off. Stretched sprue works just as well.
- I usually use the super thin variety of CA glue as it runs under and around parts and leaves minimal residue.
- You can get CA glue at the local hardware store for much less than the hobby shop glues and it's the same stuff. Pat and I get the multi-pack of small tubes from Home Depot or Lowes. Another benefit is if the glue in the tube goes bad (it no longer adheres things), just open a new tube!
We recently received an update from the UK Company Airbrushes.com on this airbrush from the famous air compressor company Sparmax.
https://airbrushes.com
Sparmax SP-35C
The SP-35C is a dual-action airbrush for full control of air and fluid – press the trigger down for air and back for fluid. But the airbrush can be converted into a simpler single-action action airbrush by fitting the alternative valve, which allows the air through all the time and you only pull back to control the amount of fluid. This is not to be confused with the other type of single-action where the button operates the air only and a pre-set amount of fluid is immediately drawn through the airbrush.
The SP-35C airbrush features:
Gravity-feed with 0.7oz (2ml) fixed cup with lid
Dual-action airbrush with Single-action valve included – converts the airbrush from a dual-action to a single-action airbrush (simple installation guide included)
Internal-mix
0.35mm nozzle and needle set up
Fine detail to 1" (0.35mm to 25mm) spray pattern with the one size nozzle
Ergonomic handle design with a Pre-set colour flow control
Extra Crown Cap included
Cleaning brush included
Replaceable internal PTFE solvent-proof needle packing for use with solvent-based paints
Coming in December. We received our information from Stevens International. http://www.stevenshobby.com/
MRAP in 1:16 Scale!
930, 1/16 US M-ATV MRAP (Mine Resistant Ambush Protected) Vehicle Trumpeter continues in their 1/16 large scale series with this all-new Oshkosh Mine Resistant Ambush Protected (MRAP) All Terrain Vehicle (M-ATV). Designed in 2009, it has been used in regions of poor roads and extreme terrain, such as Afghanistan and Iraq. The vehicle has been extremely popular, being exported to numerous countries with over 10,000 units having been manufactured in just six years. Kit consists of over 240 parts, including photo-etch.
2345, 1/35 Soviet Limber 52R 353M Mod 1942 NEW VARIANT with NEW TOOLING This limber was used for 76.2mm regimental and divisional artillery, and also served as a caisson. It was generally towed by 4-horse teams. Kit consists of over 80 parts, including photo-etch and rubber tires.
5537, 1/35 PLA Chinese Type 62 Light Tank NEW TOOL The PLA Type 62 is a Chinese light tank that was developed in the 1960s based on the Chinese Type 59. The Type 62 boasted a reduced gun caliber, lighter armor, and less electronic equipment in order to reduce its operating weight. Kit consists of over 390 parts, including individual track links and photo-etch.
5545, 1/35 Soviet T-10 Heavy Tank NEW TOOL The T-10 was a Soviet heavy tank of the Cold War, the final development of the KV and IS tank series. During development, it was called IS-8 and IS-9, and began production in 1952. The biggest differences from the IS-3, were a longer hull, seven pairs of road wheels, a larger turret mounting a new gun with fume extractor, an improved diesel engine, and increased armor. T-10s were deployed in independent tank regiments belonging to armies, and independent tank battalions belonging to divisions. Kit consists of over 310 parts, including copper cable, metal gun barrel, photo-etch and individual track links.
